With this interview, we delve into the theme of food-and-wine tourism, a rapidly growing sector; all over the world, an annual +17% is expected in the period 2022-2027. It is even more strategic to develop strategies and actions in our country, a country with important and well-recognized assets; according to some IPSOS research, in fact, leadership in culinary art is recognized to Italy by 49% of the interviewees. France (22%) and Japan (16%) follow. For this reason, BTO has devoted an important part of the program to Food & Wine Tourism for some years now. With Anna Prandoni, director of Gastronomika – the magazine dedicated to food linked to the newspaper Linkiesta, we will be talking about food and wine, young restaurateurs, changes taking place and a link with tourism that should be strengthened with the mutual benefit of the two sectors.
Hi Anna, let’s start with a first broad question. In your opinion, why is it important for food service and tourism to join together? What are the advantages you see from their becoming more integrated?
Tourism and food service are two sides of the same coin, they are closely linked and must necessarily move along in the same direction. A territory is enhanced by the presence of quality food services, and at the same time, a good welcome is essential to support food and wine accommodation activities. Wineries, hotels, restaurants and food shops are part of a single large integrated system that the consumer takes into consideration in a unified manner. And on top of all this, a territory that is capable of communicating well and that values individuals makes the difference.
The shortage of personnel unites both tourism and food services, in Italy and in the world. According to you, how can solutions to this problem be found?
The problem is much more multifaceted and complex than we are led to believe. The minimal income guaranteed by the State is just one of the variables, but there are a thousand others. The fact that people are less willing to commit the time they normally dedicate to leisure, the desire to be with their family more, their not being willing to take on difficult shifts and strenuous work. The greater appeal of working abroad in economic and training terms, but also the greater awareness of one’s rights. Resolving this economic situation is not easy. Certainly, the perception of these professions must be improved, talents must be valued, and the attractiveness of being at the service of people must be explained. There is a need for adequate training, basic but also more in-depth, which is able to develop qualified and passionate personnel. And then, something unpopular but true, it is necessary to concretely regulate immigration to make room for foreigners who are more willing to do this kind of work. Of course, on the part of the owners, a salary adjustment is needed: but let’s not forget that every increase must be “absorbed” in part by the companies but also part of it will inevitably fall on the customers. It is like when we fight illegal recruitment in words, but then we go to the supermarket to buy tomato purée at the lowest price: we are inconsistent, to put it mildly.
Food service, like tourism, is coming out of a severe crisis. You are just back from the success of Gastronomika Festival, an event that via numerous think tanks has analyzed the situation. What are the changes taking place and the most urgent challenges that have emerged? What is the role of digital?
A thousand different stimuli, a thousand ideas, and many new values in the field. Young people have clear ideas, and above all they are not afraid to break with the past. Perhaps they are the first generation that has less compared to its predecessors, and that has understood that it has nothing to lose and that it can afford to experiment, change the rules and try new paths. And they do it both in terms of working hours, format, and product: without fear and without references, they are playing a new game, aware that they are tracing a new path. It is exciting to see them carry on, and to work with them in order to discuss this enormous structural change. Digital, which for us is a part of the job, and which we have to integrate with the normal flow, is simply a tool for them, just like a pan or a goblet. It is not an option, it is normality.
“Young Italian food and wine” is the topic that you will be addressing at BTO 2022. Can you anticipate anything of what you will be talking about?
It is the main topic of our Festival and I have decided to bring an in-depth study with me to BTO, inviting three people to speak with me, people who are making the change and who are carrying it forward with determination in three different areas. Food with the very young Davide Marzullo, who has set up an under 30 brigade in a difficult province and creates a refined cuisine and a welcome that is pure fun, in a former cotton mill now an incubator for start-ups. Wine with Andrea Moser, a young, award-winning winemaker at the forefront with professional choices in the winery, in the vineyard and in communication. And events and mixology with the dynamic Chiara Buzzi, a successful entrepreneur with her Milanese cocktail bars, among the most well-established in the city, and the soul of the Forketters project, which leads young people to discover restaurants chosen for their dose of creativity and innovation. A great mix from which I hope great ideas will emerge!
The interview concerns the topic “Food & Wine Tourism” and was edited by the scientific coordinator of the topic, Roberta Milano.
Anna Prandoni (LinkedIn) – Journalist and writer, she has been a food-and-wine popularizer for over 20 years. She is the director of Gasrtonomika (Linkiesta); she previously directed La Cucina Italiana. She is in charge of the gourmet courses of Accademia Marchesi and is an Advisory Board Member of the Accademia del Panino Italiano. TEDx Speaker and Presenter. She has a single categorical imperative: # piùcibomenofood.
